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Melanie Munk, Features Editor
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Published: Monday, June 23, 2008
The Forum: More tries at hamburger gravy
By Judyrae Kruse Herald Columnist
Longing to recreate a favorite lunchroom dish from her Seattle schooldays, Herald-reading, Meridian, Idaho, resident Judy Miller asked Forum cooks for help.
Today, then, we'll continue to explore options for this popular comfy food, starting with a letter from longtime helper-outer Marion Rostad of Lynnwood.
"I checked your June 4 column," she writes, "and those recipes are missing the point entirely. The first thing to consider is that the meat you buy now is not the meat you got in the 1950s-1960s. Beef is bred to be lower fat, which makes the meat tougher. Also, the meat is now ground to a standard grind which is not as finely ground as in the 'olden days.'
"I checked with the butcher at our local QFC, and he said their grinder is set at just the one grind, so even if they grind it twice, it does not turn out as fine as it did previously.
"Also, the hamburger we used to get could be as much as 27 percent fat, and the fat is where the flavor is. Now, the percentage is only 20 percent, so you are starting at a point which is less flavorful."
Continuing, Marion says, "This recipe is basically a guess and by-golly sort of thing, depending on how many people you are serving. For two people, I use a half-pound of 20 percent hamburger.
"Fry it until it is turning brown and add onions, more or less according to your preference. Salt and pepper at this stage is OK, too. When the meat and onions are nearly cooked, tip the skillet to check the amount of grease which has cooked out. If there is more than two or three tablespoons, take some out and then add two to three tablespoons of flour to the mixture. (If there is not sufficient grease in the skillet, add some of your saved bacon grease.)
"More flour will let you serve more people, so that's where the guessing comes in. Stir it in and let the flour blend, it will blend in smoothly and not form lumps. Now add milk, starting with at least a cupful -- it will start to thicken, and then you add more milk to get the consistency you want. Taste the mixture and add salt and pepper to taste. If it is still too bland, you can use Kitchen Bouquet, which will darken it and give more flavor. Since the meat is now less flavorful, you can use bouillon for flavor, but I don't usually need it."
Next, Edmonds cook Dorothy M. Buehler antes up with her "hamburg'' how-to and tells us, "Judy Miller asked for a recipe for hamburg gravy. I never had a real recipe -- I have always just made it, varying between a half-pound and two pounds of hamburg or leanest ground beef, depending on how many kids and grandkids I have to feed (our family numbers 36 right now, with one more due in August). All that said, the directions follow.''
Dorothy's hamburg gravy
1 pound ground beef
1/4-1/2 cup chopped or minced onion or 1/2-1 teaspoon onion powder and a good dash garlic powder
1-3 tablespoons oil, margarine or butter, if needed
2-4 tablespoons flour
Freshly ground pepper to taste
11/2-2 teaspoons beef bouillon granules (eliminates the need for salt)
1-2 cups water
Kitchen Bouquet browning and seasoning sauce
Mashed potatoes or noodles
In a large skillet, brown the beef and onions over medium heat. If you've used very lean ground beef, you may need to add the oil, margarine or butter. Stir in the flour, pepper and beef bouillon. Add the onion and garlic powder, if not using onions. Add the 1 to 2 cups water, depending on how thick you like the gravy. Add about 1/2 teaspoon of the browning sauce, more if needed, and cook and stir until thickened. Serve over mashed potatoes or noodles.
Variation: Dorothy says, "I sometimes add a can of sliced mushrooms and a couple tablespoons of sour cream for hamburg stroganoff. Stir them into the gravy, mixing well, and serve with the mashed potatoes or noodles.''
The Forum is always happy to receive your contributions and requests, so don't hesitate to send them to Judyrae Kruse at the Forum, c/o The Herald, P.O. Box 930, Everett, WA 98206.
Please remember that all letters and e-mail must include a name, complete address with ZIP code and telephone number with area code. No exceptions and sorry, but no response to e-mail by return e-mail; send to kruse@heraldnet.com.
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