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<< Previous   of   Next >>   ADVERTISEMENT   CONTACT THE HERALD Melanie Munk, Features Editor munk@heraldnet.com   Published: Friday, November 6, 2009 Girardi’s: Comfort food, cozy atmosphere in Edmonds By Sarah Jackson Herald Writer When my husband and I moved from Seattle to Edmonds earlier this year, we said the only thing we would miss would be the restaurants, especially all our favorite places on Phinney Ridge. I am happy to report, however, that we are finding surprisingly satisfying flavors in our new hometown. Girardi’s Osteria, a house in the heart of downtown Edmonds, has fast become our go-to place for creatively conceived, well-executed comfort food and a cozy, festive atmosphere. We were drawn to Girardi’s low lighting, elegantly hung tapestries and a multi-sided fireplace. It’s a great date-night or family dinner haunt, busy but not usually packed. On three visits our servers were friendly, professional and so obviously comfortable in their roles that we felt instantly relaxed and ready for a bottle of wine. Thank you, Girardi’s, for those half-price bottles on Mondays and Tuesdays. On our most recent visit, I started with the Caprese salad ($8.95), a classic trio of fresh mozzarella, basil and tomato. Though the small pink tomato slices seemed like they had been trucked in from another country, I moved past it with a lovely duo of dressings — a pool of sweet, thick “balsamic caramel” and a decadent dollop of fresh pesto. Both were ideal dipping sauces for the restaurant’s otherwise basic white bread, delivered before each meal with self-serve bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. My ever-carnivorous husband started with the carpaccio ($10.95), featuring some of the thinnest filet mignon he’d ever had. He gave it two thumbs up. I indulged next in the agnello allo rosmarino ($27.95), a Dijon and rosemary-encrusted rack of lamb finished with a horseradish brandy sauce. It was delicious and perfectly cooked as requested to medium. Its fragrant flavors worked beautifully together to bring out the taste of the meat, just the thing for fall. It was served with a mountain of buttery, garlic red-skin mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables, including tender zucchini, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli and onion. My husband liked his vitello saltimbocca ($18.95), thinly sliced veal topped with prosciutto, mozzarella and a lemon white wine sauce. He had the saltimbocca on another occasion with chicken — the kitchen was out of veal that night — and proclaimed it fantastic. Both nights, it came with seasonal vegetables and a golden brown rectangle of polenta, seemingly deep fried, perhaps the first preparation of polenta I’ve ever truly enjoyed. But, you might be wondering, can Girardi’s do pasta? Yes, he — chef Bruno Girardi, formerly of Stella Mia Ristorante in Bothell — can. I recommend the rigatoni Bolognese ($15.95) with a homemade sauce, a harmonious mix of vegetable and meat flavors, including veal, pork and beef. I try Bolognese almost every time I can and I must say this one really sang. Maybe it was the fresh herbs and perfectly cooked minced vegetables. I could actually taste distinct notes of carrot, onion, tomato and, yet, they blended seamlessly. On another occasion I tried Girardi’s linguine pollo ($15.95). Though it was a showcase for tender boneless chicken breast and crimini mushrooms, it could have used more garlic in its garlic cream sauce, which was almost too light for my taste. I added black pepper at the table and it perked up dramatically. Dessert, I was delighted to see, is not an afterthought. Girardi’s traditional options of tiramisu, chocolate mousse and gelato seem to transcend their predictable places through skilled preparation and creative presentation. My coconut sorbetto ($7), served in a half coconut shell, was studded with bits of real coconut and topped with whipped cream and just a squiggle of chocolate fudge. It’s not Seattle, sure, but I think I like it that way. Sarah Jackson: 425-339-3037, sjackson@heraldnet.com. Girardi’s Osteria 504 Fifth Ave. S., Edmonds; www.girardis-osteria.com; 425-673-5278 Specialty: Northern Italian Hours: Dinner, 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Early bird menu from 4 to 6 p.m. Sunday through Thursday Cost: Moderate to expensive Alcohol: Full bar Reservations: Recommended READER COMMENTS Be the first to comment. You must be a registered user and verify your e-mail address to post comments to blogs or articles on HeraldNet. To register, click here. To read other terms and conditions, click here. Log out

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