An artichoke, above all else, is a wonder to behold.
There’s that beautiful shape. That rich green color. The way you have to slowly pluck it, leaf by leaf, to reach the succulent center.
For dipping purposes, you’ve got your mayonnaise, some melted butter or maybe just a light vinai
grette. But that’s really all you need to wow a roomful of guests.
But how do you cook ’em?
My theory is, if you want to avoid a watery artichoke — especially when it comes to the heart — then you should cook it with the stem pointing skyward, in just a few inches of water so the heart portion is basically steamed rather than boiled.
So once they’re cooked, there’s still the controversy over how to eat them. Most newcomers to the world of artichoke cuisine can’t believe we go to all this effort for such little pay-off. After all, at least 85 percent of an artichoke is inedible. You’re only after that tender morsel at the base of each leaf, and, oh, yeah, that succulent heart.
Anyway, to eat an artichoke, my approach is to simply pull leaves off the main globe one at a time, beginning with the smallest ones around the stem, and working my way toward the center.
When you pull off a leaf you’ll notice a plump little portion of artichoke meat at the base of the leaf. If this is your genuine first artichoke, then I highly recommend tasting it au natural. No mayonnaise or butter or other type of sauce. Just you and a pure artichoke experience.
To do this, just scrape off that plump tip by gently biting down on the leaf slightly ahead of the edible portion and scraping it through your front teeth. The fibrous leaf comes out, the tender pulp stays behind.
For the remaining leaves, you certainly have the option of continuing to eat them in their unsauced state. Or you can do what most artichoke lovers do, and that is, justify the consumption of vast amounts of mayonnaise and butter by dipping the pulpy tip of your artichoke leaves into one of those offerings before eating.
By the way, you’ll want to experiment with the leaf orientation as it’s inserted into your mouth. That is, try some leaves with the pulpy portion facing up and some with the pulpy portion facing down. One way will feel more enjoyable than the other, and that’s how you’ll inevitably continue to eat them for the rest of your life.
Anyway, once you reach the fuzzy center, you’re ready to enjoy the ultimate reward, the heart. Scrape the “choke” from the meaty bottom by using a spoon or knife. The big, thick, disk of artichoke you’re left with is the heart. Using fingers or fork, dip portions of it into your dipping sauce (unless you’re being pure), and enjoy!
Of course, if you love artichokes as much as I do, then a little variety is eventually called for. The smaller ones — those called “babies” or “artichoke hearts” — can be incorporated into pasta sauces, vegetable stews and salads, and eaten in their entirety, while medium to jumbo-sized globes can be stuffed.
As you’ll see from the accompanying recipes, this opens up a whole new realm of artichoke cookery.
Perhaps you’ve already noticed that some really fine-quality artichokes have been arriving in local supermarkets. But you still have to be vigilant when it comes to quality.
Remember, to pick the absolute freshest, administer my “Squeeze and Squeak” test: When you gently press around the circumference with your fingers, a truly fresh artichoke will emit a delicate little squeek.
More recipes available: Beyond the stuffed versions I’m sharing today, I’ve posted more sauce solutions for dipping artichokes into on my blog at janrd.com.
This first stuffed recipe is basically a plain ol’ cooked artichoke. But the flavoring components are off the charts because prior to putting the artichokes into the pot with some flavored water, you stuff bits of garlic, basil and chives down between the leaves.
Now it does require cooking the artichoke in the complete opposite position than I have previously described (stem down rather than up), but it’s not such a disastrous thing, and like I said, the flavor is fabulous.
Artichokes stuffed and cooked with garlic, lemon and herbs
4 medium-sized artichokes
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/3 cup minced fresh basil
1/4 cup minced chives
1/4 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel (outer yellow portion only)
1 1/2 cups dry white
1/2 cup water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 bay leaf
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 slice onion
1 tablespoon olive oil
Prepare artichokes for cooking as described above.
Combine the 4 cloves of minced garlic with the basil, chives, and lemon peel, and using a heaping tablespoon per artichoke, stuff the artichokes by squeezing bits of the mixture between the leaves, pushing it as far down between the leaves as you can.
Combine the wine, water, salt, bay leaf, crushed garlic, onion, and olive oil in a pan large enough to hold the artichokes and stand the artichokes, stem-side down, in the pan. Bring the wine to a simmer, cover, and simmer about 25 to 30 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender and the leaves pull away easily.
Allow to cool and serve. Leftovers will keep refrigerated for a couple of days. Makes 4 servings.
Chicken stuffed artichokes
4 artichokes, cooked and prepared for stuffing as described above
2 cups cooked and diced chicken
1/2 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese
1/4 cup chopped green onions
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup fine dry bread crumbs
1/4 cup milk
1 egg, beaten
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon, crumbled
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
While artichokes are cooking, combine remaining ingredients; mix well and set aside.
When the cooked artichokes can be easily handled, prepare each one for stuffing by gently spread it open and scraping out the center “choke” with a small spoon. Spoon one fourth of the chicken mixture into the center of each artichoke, and place them in baking dish. Bake, covered, in a 350 degree oven for 15 minutes, remove cover and bake 15 minutes longer, or until hot and bubbly.
Yields 4 servings.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com, or obtain additional recipes and food tips and news about her new cookbook, “Oregon Hazelnut Country — the Food, the Drink, the Spirit,” on her blog at janrd.com.
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