Beer of the Month: Uinta Baba Black Lager

What it is: A black lager from Salt Lake City’s Uinta Brewing. The black lager enjoys a deep beer history — in Germany it’s called Schwarzbier — that amounts to the light body and easy drinkability of a lager (most of the nation’s major beers are lagers) but with the pleasant curveball of dark, roasted character. However, black lagers are relatively rare in American craft brewing. That’s too bad, because they’re perfect summer beers for someone who wants to drink lighter, lower-alcohol brews without sacrificing flavor (and who isn’t in the mood for a hop-forward beer). Bonus points for being certified organic.

Alcohol (by volume): 4 percent

In the can: The deep black color — and robust roasty nose — would probably put many people off of this as a summer beer, but as soon as it hits the taste buds that’s exactly what it is: bright, smooth and refreshing. Then comes the complexity from the roasted malt, with a minor creaminess that ups the body from a lighter lager, along with elements of light char and coffee. But Baba is at heart a light and drinkable beer, and its moderate alcohol keeps it from seeming overly weighty, no matter the color.

Drink it with: A clean, versatile food beer, made even more so by its roasted overtones, Baba pairs with anything with a little heft, from meaty barbecue to pizza to Mexican or Thai.