Editor’s note: Myscha Theriault is currently traveling through North America with her husband and Labrador retriever. Readers can follow their adventures on trekhound.com and on Twitter: @myschatheriault.
LONG BEACH — Just north of the Oregon state line lies a slightly sleepy stretch of seaside known as the Long Beach Peninsula. Featuring miles of public, pet-friendly beachfront, easy access to the Lewis and Clark exhibits at Cape Disappointment State Park, a national historic district with period buildings and a dogs-welcome golf course, there are plenty of free and cost-effective activities to help stretch your travel budget.
And then of course, there’s the food scene. With boatloads of cranberry bogs, numerous spots for harvesting wild mushrooms and more fresh seafood than your stomach will be able to handle, you certainly won’t head home hungry. Here’s how to make the most of your visit.
Very accommodating
While many beach destinations can only be accessed with accommodations priced at several hundred dollars per night, the Long Beach Peninsula has pet-friendly options for less than $100, sand included. One option is the Sou’wester Lodge. A kitschy-in-a-good-way collection of cabins, retro lodge suites and vintage camper trailers in various stages of renovation, it’s steps from the beach and bursting with Bohemian atmosphere. The main lodge lobby is open to guests during the day for those who want to enjoy the fireplace, record collection, book nooks and camaraderie.
Adrift is another affordable hotel. Decorated in more of a mod industrial loft motif, you can step out onto the beach and let your dog roam off leash, as is possible in many other locations on the peninsula. There’s an all-day complimentary organic coffee and tea bar with java that’s definitely brewed to jolt, free DVD borrowing and bikes for exploring the nearby streets.
Waterfront access from this venue is particularly attractive, as vacationers have the option to either barefoot it in the sand with a bonfire, use the paved jogging trail or enjoy one of the coolest boardwalks through the dune grass you’re likely to find. All three options are open to canine exploration.
Where to go for grub
Whether you’re wetting your whistle, hunting for a light snack or searching out a spot for a special dinner, you’ll find plenty of appealing options all along the peninsula. Pickled Fish offers a pretty big bang for your casual dining buck. Housed on the penthouse floor of a beachfront hotel, it features local ingredients and live music in a hip atmosphere with spectacular ocean views. Their $15 wood-fired vegetarian pizzas are sized for sharing, and the homemade white bean burgers will fill you up fast.
If you feel like a bit of a splurge, head to The Depot. Housed in a converted historic train station, the eatery offers sophisticated entrees for less than $30 a plate, including razor clam pasta, luscious lamb meatballs and vegetarian risotto. Their daily dessert offerings are definitely worth the calorie indulgence.
Another romantic option is the restaurant at the Shelburne Inn. Full of antiques and overflowing with vintage charm, they offer a wild mushroom risotto for $28 and their $9 roasted beet salad is scrumptious. If you’d like to enjoy their atmosphere but need to pinch your food pennies a bit, you can head there on Thursday nights to enjoy the live pianist playing in their espresso bar. There’s also an on-site pub with live music on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Plenty to do, see
Make time to explore the historic village of Oysterville for photo opportunities and architectural enjoyment. The entire community has been placed on the National Historic Register, including the original church and school which are open to summer visitors. Checking out the town is a free activity and a great way to break up a scenic drive of the area.
The town of Seaview is also worth a walking tour, with its Victorian buildings and easy off-leash beach access. When you’re finished checking out the town, head to North Jetty Brewing for a beer tasting. Five bucks will score you a flight, and small glasses of your favorite selection start at just $3.
Quality four-legged beach time without a required leash is tough to come by, no matter which coast you’re visiting. This makes including multiple beach stops a must for pet parents. Take ample time to let your dog be themselves and build a few memories while you’re at it. If golf is your thing, the destination also has a course where canines are more than welcome.
The Peninsula Golf Course allows you to stroll with them between holes and let them wait by your bag of clubs, provided you pick up any messes your pooch might make. Their on-site restaurant welcomes Rover on the patio and offers casual lunch fare for those anxious to get back to their game as soon as possible. Show up after 4 p.m., and you can enjoy unlimited play time for $20.
If you’d prefer something a little more romantic, Back Country Horse Rides in Long Beach proper lets you ride along the beach for $25 per person, while the local cranberry museum offers free admission to explore their artifacts and memorabilia. The museum also has a small gift shop selling everything from cranberry candles and soaps to beverages and jam.
U.S. 101 wonders
Many people south of the state line arrive on the peninsula via Astoria, Oregon. However, nature enthusiasts driving through Washington are beginning to embrace U.S. 101 as a scenic driving and biking route. Winding through the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge past the kayak launch and walking trail available at the main park office, the road also takes drivers through the tiny towns of Raymond and South Bend which are showing signs of tourism revitalization.
South Bend’s 101 Public House has the occasional live band, fresh-as-they-come oysters, $5 chowder cups and a great atmosphere for enjoying a waterfront brewsky. Those spending the night can enjoy a basic diner breakfast at Willapa Restaurant and Lounge which offers a pretty decent blueberry short stack.
A few miles away in Raymond, rooms can be procured at the Pitchwood Ale House, which has undergone recent renovations. They even have $10 shared-room hostel experiences for European travelers. This venue also offers veg-friendly fare and brings in live performers on a regular basis, including the popular regional band Sky Bound Blue. Take time to hit the local carriage museum before you head home. The $4 entry fee grants you access to a wide selection of preserved examples, including several original movie props.
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