LA CONNER — They call it the magic hour.
The period just before sunset attracts photographers who wait for that perfect golden light. At this time of year in La Conner, it’s a good bet that the rain will stop for a few minutes, too, and the town’s iconic Rainbow Bridge will be displayed in that soft glow.
As we approach the winter solstice, the magic hour peaks at about 4 p.m. That’s also a good time, after you get the shot, to step inside one of the many cozy restaurants in town. After sunset, it’s sure to start raining again.
That’s OK. Eat a good meal and watch the lights twinkle in the raindrops on the windows overlooking the Swinomish Channel.
La Conner, long home to the Swinomish Tribe, was established in about 1870. Its history as a trading post, a logging center, a steamship stop, a fishing village and a hub for local farmers was eclipsed in the 1970s when it developed into a tourist destination, complete with museums, art galleries, gift shops and fancy eateries.
Blame it on the state’s most historically famous artists, Guy Anderson, Morris Graves, Mark Tobey and Kenneth Callahan. Only Anderson settled in La Conner permanently, but they all visited, charmed by the light and the Asian-quality of the landscape.
And they attracted dozens of other brilliant artists, along with the former newspaper art critic and popular novelist Tom Robbins, who still lives uptown. See if you can pick out his place.
OK, and blame the town’s tourists on the tulips, too. The Skagit Valley Tulip Festival had its start more than 30 years ago. The people who dreamed up the festival were from Mount Vernon, but the tourists clogged the roads into La Conner. Owing to a few good roundabout intersections established in the past 10 years, travel is a lot better during the month of April when nearby fields are bright with tulip blooms.
Anyway, back to supper.
Our recommendation is Nell Thorn.
Last year, owners Susan and Casey Schanen moved their bistro into their current waterfront location at 116 S. First St. Sit in the intimate pub, the more formal waterside dining room or enjoy supper with the locals in the main bistro. In the summer, dine on the deck.
Wherever you sit, enjoy the locally sourced food and creative Northwest menu. These people have it figured out.
Another place to visit is the new Anelia’s Kitchen &Stage, also on First. They have entertainment most Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Nearly everyone who makes a day trip to La Conner strolls along First Street to visit the shops and galleries. Some storefronts emptied out during the economic recession, but most are back, filled with delightful stuff.
Some of the best include Gallery Cygnus, which focuses on the best from local artists such as Swinomish carver Kevin Paul, sculptor/painter Clayton James and painter Maggie Wilder, and Cassera Arts Premiers, which has a great collection of Guy Anderson paintings.
Also check out the Ginger Grater kitchen and olive shop, the Stall imports shop and the Wood Merchant furniture gallery.
Walk throughout town to view the La Conner’s outdoor sculpture collection. In fact, a walk from Pioneer Park on the south to the marina on the north is a great idea before supper.
The top must-see in town is the Museum of Northwest Art, 121 S. First St. And it’s a great place to spend a rainy winter day.
Opened decades ago as Valley Museum of Northwest Art by photographer Art Hupy, MoNA is now a world-class museum. The permanent collection is outstanding, and some of it is always displayed on the second floor.
But wait, La Conner has two other museums, both worth a visit.
The La Conner Quilt and Textile Museum is housed in the Gaches Mansion at 703 S. Second St. It’s one of only 14 such museums in the country. Before Christmas, be sure to check out the first floor of the mansion, decorated in fine Victorian style. Upstairs in the galleries, see fabulous quilt shows and textile exhibits.
From the Gaches, walk a few more blocks up the hill to the Skagit County Historical Museum, 501 S. Fourth St. Ask to see the easterly view of the valley from the main hall. On a clear day, you can see from mounts Baker to Three Fingers to Rainier. A Christmas exhibit is on now at the museum and you can always pick up a map to see all the heritage barns in the area.
Speaking of barns, on your way back to the freeway, take in a concert at the Conway Muse, a performance venue in an old barn. Some of the best regional bands and combos play there.
Gale Fiege: 425-339-3427; gfiege@heraldnet.com. Twitter: @galefiege.
Tourist in Your Own Town
In each of our cities in Snohomish and Island counties, we have tourist attractions often overlooked by the people who live here. Have you taken the time to be a Tourist in Your Own Town? This month we venture just a bit farther afield with a trip to La Conner and Conway, just over the Skagit County line. This the 12th in a continuing series of monthly explorations of our hometowns. For more Tourist in Your Own Town stories, go to www.heraldnet.com/tourist.
Talk to us
> Give us your news tips.
> Send us a letter to the editor.
> More Herald contact information.
