Pepper Bridge Winery is a Walla Walla Valley star

It’s hard to remember a time when Pepper Bridge Winery wasn’t around and among the Walla Walla Valley’s top wineries.

Yet Norm McKibben launched the operation in 1998, making it the 18th winery in the valley. He quickly brought in partner Ray Goff, a veteran of Anheuser-Busch, and they hired Swiss-born winemaker Jean-François Pellet, who later also became a partner.

Pellet’s wines quickly gained acclaim as among the best and most collectible in Washington and beyond.

The winery’s (and vineyard’s) name dates back to the days of the Oregon Trail, when a key crossing over the Walla Walla River was owned by the Pepper family. Stagecoaches and covered wagons crossed a bridge there. Today, Peppers Bridge Road runs north-south near the Washington-Oregon border south of Walla Walla.

After Pepper Bridge was established, a second label was created called Amavi, which has since evolved into its own winery, with all the wines made by Pellet.

In addition to the estate Pepper Bridge Vineyard, McKibben also is a partner in Seven Hills Vineyard with the owners of Leonetti Cellar and L’Ecole No. 41.

Pepper Bridge and Amavi have separate tasting rooms in the southern Walla Walla Valley, and they share a tasting room in Woodinville, not far from Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Search for the Pepper Bridge and Amavi wines in gourmet groceries and high-end wine shops.

Here are a few examples we’ve tasted in recent weeks.

Pepper Bridge Winery 2012 Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, $60: This Meritage-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot spent 17 months in French oak. Aromas of raspberry, cassis, French vanilla and maple lead to flavors of red fruit and cinnamon toast, all backed by lively acidity, age-worthy tannins and a finish of white pepper. (14.6 percent)

Pepper Bridge Winery 2011 Trine, Walla Walla Valley, $65: This red blend rhymes with wine and is coined as a tribute to the triumvirate of ownership: the McKibben, Pellet and Goff families. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot leads with aromas of blackberry taffy, cherry juice and black currant syrup followed by dark, alluring flavors focused on blueberries and chocolate-covered pomegranate with ageworthy tannins and a finish of cherry. (14.4 percent)

Pepper Bridge Winery 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, Walla Walla Valley, $35: For 15 years, Pepper Bridge has focused on reds — until this Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of pineapple, yellow grapefruit, Granny Smith apple and lemongrass turn into clean flavors of dried papaya with yellow grapefruit, backed by lime peel. (13.9 percent)

Pepper Bridge Winery 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $60: Tones of roasted coffee and cola with plum, Marionberry dark blueberry and Hostess Cherry Pie lead to a rich, entry, solid tannins and bright acidity, which set the stage for a finish of chocolate-covered pomegranate. (14.4 percent)

Amavi Cellars 2012 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $32: Les Collines Vineyard in the foothills of the Blue Mountains serves as the lifeblood for a number of wineries in the region, but it’s also a large estate planting for this sister brand of Pepper Bridge Winery. It forms nearly two-thirds of this Syrah, which is brimming with tones of blackberry, blueberry and Western serviceberry, backed by notes of vanilla, tar and charred cherry wood. The remarkable amount of acidity makes this more food-friendly than many Syrahs. (14.6 percent)

Amavi Cellars 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $32: While Amavi does venture beyond Bordeaux varieties, the work done with Cabernet Sauvignon remains exemplary. Aromas of sweet oak, blueberry, lilac and lavender lead to rich and smooth flavors of black currant, blueberry and chocolate. There’s some juiciness with pomegranate alongside firm plum skin tannins. Suggested pairings include a T-bone alongside grilled portobello mushroom and cassoulet. (14.5 percent)

Eric Degerman and Andy Perdue run Great Northwest Wine, a news and information company.

Listen to their weekly podcast on iTunes or at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.