COUPEVILLE — Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve on Whidbey Island is a local, state and national jewel.
For many people, it’s one of the best places in the world.
Within this 25-square-mile region are two state parks, the colorful town of Coupeville, dozens of historic buildings, sweeping views, 100-year-old working farms, Penn Cove mussels, the ferry to Port Townsend, miles of public beach, bike trails, acres of native rhododendrons and, best of all, Ebey’s Landing itself.
Turn south from Highway 20 at Coupeville onto Ebey Road past the old Ferry House and park at the beach. Hike the trail from the beach to the top of the bluff overlooking Admiralty Inlet.
Enjoy the views of the Olympic Mountains across the water and the big ships in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Look southeast to Mount Rainier and catch Mount Baker over your shoulder. Hike among the wind-tangled trees to a spot on the other side of Perego’s Lake. Head down and then walk back on the beach.
Who needs Dover’s White Cliffs when a spot equally as beautiful is just an hour away? Though it’s dramatic on stormy days, Ebey’s is in the rain shadow and you can generally count on nice weather this time of year.
Located in the middle of Whidbey, Ebey’s reserve is a partnership between the National Park Service and the people who live there. It’s an unusual part of the National Parks system because most of the property is privately owned. In the late 1970s, people in the Coupeville area called for a halt to uncontrolled development on Ebey’s Prairie above the landing. Congress created the reserve to preserve and protect the rural community and its history. Reserve policy is carried out by a nine-member trust board of local, state and federal members.
The Ebey’s reserve office, the Jacob Ebey and Davis blockhouses and the Sunnyside Cemetery are located off Sherman Road, and they’re all worth the stop.
Off Engle Road, which traverses the farmland, stop at the Prairie Wayside and circle around to Ebey’s Landing on Hill Road for more beautiful views.
At some point in your visit to the area, stop in the Island County seat of Coupeville on Penn Cove.
Home to many Coast Salish (primarily Skagit) people and settled later by sea captains in the mid-1800s, Coupeville is one of the state’s oldest towns. Check out the Victorian-era homes, some of which now double as bed-and-breakfast establishments. Pick up a self-guided tour pamphlet at the Chamber of Commerce visitors center on Alexander Street.
Walk out to the wharf, enjoy the fine Island County Historical Society Museum, wander along charming Front Street, visit Kingfisher Books, shop the boutiques (some of which are housed in buildings that served 100 years ago as law offices) and eat. Be sure to try the goodies at Knead and Feed’s bakery and the mussels at Toby’s Tavern.
While the town’s history abounds, Coupeville also has seen its share of Hollywood. Among the movies made in the area are “War of the Roses,” “Snow Falling On Cedars” and “Practical Magic.” Many folks can tell you exactly where scenes from the films were shot.
Head west from town along the beautiful Madrona Way to Highway 20 and around the cove to Penn Cove Pottery. After a visit there, turn south for a short distance and follow the signs to Fort Ebey State Park for more hiking and exploring. Don’t forget your state Discover Pass, $30 for a year or $10 for a day.
For bicycle folks, the Kettles Recreation Area next to Fort Ebey is a great place to ride, and you can follow the Kettles Trail all the way out to the Rhododendron County Park on the other side of town. In May, the native rhododendrons put on a great show.
The other state park, Fort Casey, is popular and has lots to do. Visit the beautiful Admiralty Head Lighthouse and play among the historic gun batteries, built more than 100 years ago to guard the entrance to Puget Sound and the Navy shipyard at Bremerton.
Adjacent to the park is the Keystone harbor, where you can walk on the ferry to Port Townsend, which, by the way, earlier this week was named one of the country’s top 20 small cities by Smithsonian magazine.
At Crockett Lake, next to the Keystone Spit, check out the raptors and shorebirds. In the fall you can see all sorts of migratory birds here.
Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, with its beauty and public access, is considered by many native Whidbey Islanders to be the heart of the island — a sentiment that’s easy to understand.
Gale Fiege: 425-339-3427; gfiege@heraldnet.com. Twitter: @galefiege.
Tourist in Your Own Town
In each of our local cities, we have tourist attractions often overlooked by the people who live in this region. Have you taken the time to be a Tourist in Your Own Town? This the 16th in a continuing series of monthly explorations of our hometowns. For more Tourist in Your Own Town stories and for links to more information about each town we’ve covered, go to www.heraldnet.com/tourist.
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