In his former career in construction, Ron Walcher would often hear the word “skookum,” which means big, bold and strong.
So when it came time to name his brewery, Walcher thought the word would be perfect.
“We wanted something that encompassed how we build our beers,” Walcher said.
A lot has been written about Skookum’s prolonged dispute with their neighbors and subsequent move to a warehouse near the Arlington Airport in 2012. But what has been less documented is the quality of beer made by Walcher, and now head brewer Hollis Wood.
“I think they’re one of the best breweries in the state,” said Scott Wetzel, who lives in Arlington and owns Fresh Bread Design, a design business that works with a number of local breweries and wineries. “They’re constantly innovating. They’re always concerned with the quality of ingredients and where they come from. With the (craft beer) boom it’s really easy for breweries to do it wrong. They get it.”
More and more people are taking notice. The new location, which is a former Bayliner production warehouse, is often packed, with lines going out the door. Visitors flock from Bellingham, Seattle and beyond to enjoy beers called Brown &Hairy, Mammoth Jack and Olde Tom.
Last year, Skookum won a gold medal and two silvers at the Washington Beer Awards. Its Barren Wood, a barrel-aged version of its English-style ale, Mule, was named the best Wood and Barrel Aged Strong Beer.
“Ron has become a progressively more accomplished brewer over the years,” said Brina Burke, a longtime Skookum fan who lives in Stanwood. “They deserve all the accolades they’re receiving.”
Getting his start as a home brewer more than 20 years ago, Walcher, who started the brewery with his wife, Jackie Jenkins, in 2007, has often focused on beers that leave their mark. Breakfast of Crows, an imperial oatmeal stout brewed with maple syrup, vanilla beans and a touch of espresso that finishes at 10.3 percent ABV.
But Walcher and Wood aren’t afraid to make more challenging beers like a pilsner. On tap recently, Skookum offered a pilsner infused with whole cone hallertau, a noble German hop, black peppercorns and lime zest.
Walcher estimated that one-third of Skookum’s beers are one-offs, experimentals and variations
“People like variety,” Walcher said. “They like to be able to come in and say, ‘What do you have new?’ ”
Walcher is careful to buy local equipment and ingredients. A sign posted at the brewery boasts that 82 percent of the brewery’s equipment was made in the U.S., and a recently purchased brite tank was made in Vancouver. Walcher also now pursues Washington-grown grains exclusively for his beer.
“It costs about 8-cents a pound more than grains we could get in Canada,” Walcher said “But we get a better yield and can actually meet the farmers.”
Walcher doesn’t do as much brewing as he used to, hiring Wood as head brewer a year ago. Skookum produced a little over 800 barrels of beer last year and could approach 1,000 in 2015, but Walcher doesn’t expect to grow too much larger.
“I don’t want to grow to the point that I’m just a manager,” Walcher said. “I want to stay in the brewing process and not just manage people.”
The beautiful oak and copper barrels that made the old Skookum barn so appealing populate the new space, in view of beer drinkers sitting at a number of large tables dotting the taproom. Dogs are still welcome. It may not be the bucolic beer experience the old place was, but it’s a relaxing place to tip back a pint.
“I was skeptical at first; it’s an old stinky warehouse,” said Ross Carbo, of Lake Stevens, who visited Skookum often in its previous location. “I didn’t have the vision they’d make it as welcoming as it is.”
Carbo and his wife, Jennifer, meet a group of friends at the brewery twice a week, talking about beer, family and life. In the brewery rich Pacific Northwest, taprooms like Skookum’s have become the new bars and taverns for a growing set of craft beer fans. It’s where everybody knows your name and the beers are more than fizzy yellow liquid.
“The way they set it up it’s conducive to building relationships with strangers,” Carbo said. “Relationships build organically out of that. I’ve built a number of lasting friendships there.”
Maybe skookum should also mean family.
Aaron Swaney: 425-339-3430; aswaney@heraldnet.com. Twitter: @swaney_aaron79. Follow the Hops and Sips blog at www.heraldnet.com/hopsandsips.
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