The Pacific Northwest sparkling wine scene is in a dynamic state right now, and it’s only going to get better and more interesting in the years to come.
At Michelle Sparkling Wines (formerly Domaine Ste. Michelle), longtime bubble master Rick Casqueiro retired this spring and was succeeded by Paula Eakin, who has worked for the company for more than 20 years.
On the south shore of Lake Chelan, Karma Vineyards’ focus on sparkling wine is paying off, as it is crafting some of the best anywhere.
We should expect a veritable explosion of sparkling wine in the Willamette Valley in the next few years, as Andrew Davis (formerly of Argyle Winery) has launched Radiant Sparkling Wine Co. In that role, Davis is helping several wineries make small lots of sparkling wine (minimum of 300 cases) by providing the expertise and equipment to riddle, disgorge, cork and label.
And in Idaho’s Snake River Valley, Coiled Wines owner Leslie Preston has crafted one of the first — and certainly the best — sparkling wines in the Gem State’s history. It is a stunning sparkling Riesling.
With the exception of Michelle, most Northwest sparkling wines are produced in tiny amounts and typically are most easily obtained through your favorite wine merchant or by contacting the wineries directly.
We recently conducted a comprehensive blind judging of Northwest sparkling wines the Summer issue of Wine Press Northwest magazine. Below are some of the finest we tasted. For the complete list, go to www.winepressnw.com.
Karma Vineyards 2011 Brut, Columbia Valley, $50: Cornell-trained winemaker Craig Mitrakul is crafting some of the Northwest’s most delicious sparkling wines along the south shore of Lake Chelan. This bright, dry bubbly opens with aromas of white flowers, mango and brioche, followed by flavors of lemon yogurt, cream and pineapple. The silky mouth feel is backed with refreshing acidity that takes us on a long, endearing finish. (12.5 percent)
Coiled Wines 2014 Rizza, Snake River Valley, $28: Leslie Preston moved home to Idaho from the Napa Valley to make beautiful wines, and this sparkling Riesling is her first effort at bubbly. It is a stunner, thanks to aromas of clove, minerality, lime zest and orchard fruit, followed by bold, bright flavors of Asian pear, green apple, white peach and lime. It all gives way to a lengthy and pleasant finish. (13 percent)
Michelle Sparkling Wine NV Brut Rosé, Columbia Valley, $14: Year in and year out, this is Michelle’s best sparkling wine, and this iteration once again rises to the top. It’s made from 100% Pinot Noir — a rarity in Washington’s arid Columbia Valley — and it is luscious, thanks to aromas of cranberry, strawberry, cherry and purple lavender, followed by lovely, elegant flavors of apple, melon, apricot and raspberry. A delicate mousse is backed with gorgeous acidity. (11.5 percent)
Castillo de Feliciana Vineyard &Winery 2013 Brillánte, Columbia Valley, $30: Castillo de Feliciana, based in the southern Walla Walla Valley with a tasting room in Woodinville, tends to focus on Spanish red varieties. This is a new effort by winemaker Chris Castillo, and it is made from Pinot Blanc. Aromas of apple, vanilla cream and minerality lead to rich, frothy flavors of apple, pear and apricot. It’s a bright, dry, elegant and gorgeous bubbly from first sip through the lengthy finish. (11.5 percent)
Westport Winery 2011 Going Coastal, Washington, $31: Dana Roberts crafts his wine just a few miles from the central Washington coast in Grays Harbor County, and he nailed this gorgeous sparkling Gewürztraminer. It opens with classic aromas of clove, spice, lychee and pink grapefruit, backed by flavors of peach, pear, ginger, tangelo and lemon zest. All the bright acidity is expertly tempered by a kiss of residual sweetness. (11 percent)
Eric Degerman and Andy Perdue run Great Northwest Wine, a news and information company. Listen to their weekly podcast on iTunes or at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.
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