Don’t be afraid of fennel — its looks are deceiving

Most people pass on fennel because it looks so darn complicated to tackle. Pretty, but complicated. Which it isn’t.

In fact, fennel is one of the most forgiving vegetables I’ve ever encountered in terms of preparation. When you peel or cut it you don’t have to worry about the exposed surface turning brown like a potato or avocado. Nor will it turn olive drab in acid solutions the way broccoli, beans and peas do.

The first time I tried fennel I approached it the way I do any unfamiliar vegetable: in its raw state. The texture reminded me of celery, the vegetable it most closely resembles in appearance. But that’s where the comparison stopped, because raw fennel has an intense anise or licorice flavor.

I wasn’t crazy about the experience. The fact is that raw fennel is definitely an acquired taste.

The next phase of my fennel exploration involved sauteing the chopped vegetable in a little bit of butter. After about 5 minutes it was tender enough to try. I couldn’t believe the dramatic changes. With just a little bit of heat, a vegetable that had been so pungent raw was transformed into a delicate dish of sweet and gentle nature. The anise was there, but in such subtle proportions that it harmonized with the other flavors.

Instantly my mind’s palate made a shopping list of complimentary ingredients. From my pantry I retrieved a clove of garlic, minced it up and added it to the pan. Then I poured in a splash of dry sherry, a few tablespoonsful of light cream, and continued cooking until it had been reduced. To finish this simple creation I sprinkled a little freshly grated Parmesan on top and gave the dish a light broiling just to bring a little blush to its surface.

Splendid.

From Fennel 101 I graduated to fennel with scallops (a heavenly combination), fennel with tomatoes (a natural), and fennel with sausage (so Cajun). The feathery leaves are a beautiful garnish to creamed soups, and when finely minced, add a slightly pungent zest to homemade vinaigrettes.

Right now fresh fennel is at its peak, and you’ll find good supplies of it through early spring. If possible, buy fennel with the stalks and leaves attached, then remove the leaves if you’re going to store the fennel for any length of time. The bulb should be compact, firm, not spread out at the top, and unblemished, with no sign of drying or brownness.

Preparation: To prepare, simply wash, then trim away the root end (leaving 1/8-inch of the base near the root to hold the fennel together during cooking if cooking the vegetable whole or halved). Trim away the stalks to the point where they meet the top and sides of the bulb, and peel away any dry or pulpy outer layers.

Use the stalks and trimmings in soup stocks (but remember, a little goes a long way) — particularly to fish chowders, or place stalks and leaves on barbecue coals as they do in France, to add a gentle fennel flavoring to the grilled food.

To microwave two trimmed bulbs, each weighing about 3/4 of a pound, place in a covered dish with 1/4 cup water and microwave on high for 8 to 10 minutes, turning several times.

Baked fennel with parmesan and Monterey jack

2pounds fennel bulbs with 1-inch of stalks

2quarts chicken broth

1/2cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

3tablespoons butter

1/2cup Monterey Jack cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash and trim the fennel bulbs. Place the bulbs in a pot with the chicken broth and blanch until tender but still firm, 8 to 15 minutes. Cool to touch and then quarter each bulb, leaving a thin layer of the core with each section to hold the fennel together. Arrange the wedges cut side up, in a lightly buttered 1 1/2 quart baking dish. Cover with the grated Parmesan cheese, then dabs of butter. Sprinkle on Monterey jack cheese, season with the salt and pepper and bake in a 400 degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until heated through and the cheese is nicely browned.

Yields 4 servings.

Fennel sauteed with garlic and cream

2pounds fennel bulbs with 1-inch of stalks

2tablespoons butter, margarine or olive oil

1clove garlic, chopped

1/3cup light cream (half and half)

3tablespoons dry sherry

Salt to taste

1/3cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Wash and trim the fennel bulbs. Slice into rounds, and then coarsely chop. Saute the pieces in a pan with the butter, margarine or oil until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue cooking another 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in the cream and sherry and simmer the mixture until the cream is reduced and the sauce is thickened. Salt to taste, then sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and grill just until golden. (If your saute pan is does not have a heat-proof handle, either cover it with foil or transfer the mixture to a shallow gratin dish before broiling.)

Yields 4 servings.

An unusual combination of flavors

Fennel, orange and watercress salad

2bunches of fennel

6navel oranges

14black Greek olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

4teaspoons each: lemon juice, orange juice

1teaspoon each: Dijon-style mustard, salt

Pepper to taste

6tablespoons olive oil

2bunches watercress, stems removed

Trim the bases and remove the leaves and stalks from the fennel bulb. Peel the stalks and unwrap the layers of the bulbs. Cut the stalks and bulbs into julienne strips measuring 1 1/2 inches long and 1/4 inch thick and soak them in cold water for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, peel the rind and pith (the white portion) from the oranges and cut the oranges horizontally into 1/4-inch thick slices; halve each slice.

In a bowl, combine the oranges and olives.

In a small bowl, combine the lemon juice, orange juice, mustard, salt and pepper. Slowly beat in the olive oil, mixing until it is well combined.

Drain the fennel strips and pat them dry with paper towels. Combine the fennel with the oranges, olives, and watercress. Lightly toss with the salad dressing.

From "Gourmet," September 1972

Fennel Mornay

4fennel bulbs with 1-inch stalks

8slices bacon or ham

Mornay sauce (recipe follows)

2/3cup combined grated Parmesan and Swiss cheese

6tablespoons butter or margarine

Wash and trim fennel bulbs and blanch in large pot of boiling water (or steam) until barely tender, 10 to 20 minutes; cool. Halve bulbs, core, then slice or coarsely chop to measure 8 or 9 cups fennel. Cook bacon and crumble, or mince ham fine; set aside. Prepare mornay sauce. Then, lightly butter an oven proof 1 1/2 quart dish, layer half the fennel, sprinkle with half the bacon or ham, cover with half the Mornay sauce, and repeat layers once again. Cover with cheese and dot with butter. Dish may be refrigerated up to 24 hours ahead at this point. When ready to serve, bake in 400 degree oven until hot and bubbly (15 minutes if the dish has just been assembled; 25 or 30 if it has been refrigerated), then broil until top is golden.

Yields 10 to 12 servings.

Mornay sauce: Melt 5 tablespoons butter in saucepan; add 1/3 cup flour and whisk to remove lumps. Cook slowly for 2 to 3 minutes, without browning. Remove the pan from heat and whisk in 4 cups milk, stirring well to remove lumps. Bring sauce to a boil, reduce heat, and let simmer slowly for at least 5 minutes, adding more milk if sauce seems too thick. Stir in 1/2 cup of grated Swiss cheese, 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, and 2 to 3 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard, and 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce. Stir until the cheese is melted and the sauce is smooth.

Yields approximately 4 cups.

Adapted from: "The Victory Garden Cookbook," by Marian Morash

Fennel sauteed with mushrooms and tomatoes

2fennel bulbs

2cloves garlic, peeled and minced or crushed

5tablespoons olive oil

3/4pound fresh mushrooms, sliced

1(32 ounce) can whole tomatoes (or tomato pieces)

1/4cup dry sherry

1/4cup chicken broth

1 1/4teaspoons salt

1/4teaspoon white pepper

1tablespoon each: reserved fennel leaves (snipped or chopped), chopped parsley

Trim the base from each fennel bulb and remove and reserve the leaves. Peel the stalks and cut the bulbs and stalks into julienne strips measuring 1 1/2 inches long and about 1/4-inch thick. In a large skillet, cook the fennel strips with the garlic in the olive oil over moderate heat, stirring, for 6 minutes. Increase the temperature to medium-high, add the mushrooms and saute until the mushrooms release their moisture. Reduce heat slightly and continue cooking to evaporate the moisture, then stir in the tomatoes, sherry, broth, salt and pepper. Continue cooking until the mixture is thickened and the moisture is almost absorbed, about 15 to 20 minutes. When ready to serve, sprinkle with the reserved fennel leaves and chopped parsley.

Yields 4 servings.

Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contract her through by email at janrd@proaxis.com.