Find ‘picturesque’ just minutes from Amsterdam

  • By Rick Steves Herald Columnist
  • Friday, February 15, 2013 4:45pm
  • Life

When researching my guidebooks, almost by definition I have to revisit the same places. But I also like to take a few day trips here and there to scout out new destinations — both for future editions and for future TV shows.

On my last visit to Europe, I explored many places, including the lush lowlands of Holland.

In a country as tiny as the Netherlands, day-tripping is easy to do. Within a half-hour of leaving Amsterdam’s main train station, you can be deep in the Dutch countryside — awash with tulips, red-brick houses, quaint waterways and black-and-white cows. I found canals with reflections that would inspire Monet to set up his easel.

While there are lots of day-trip options — such as Haarlem, Delft, the Hague or Arnhem — I spent my day visiting Edam, Marken and Volendam — three picturesque villages in a region northeast of Amsterdam aptly called the Waterland.

Edam — known for its famous cheese covered in red or yellow wax — is full of history, charm, great hotels and ambience. I loved it. This adorable village is sweet but not saccharine, and is just 30 minutes by bus from Amsterdam.

If you go, try to visit during Edam’s Wednesday morning market; it’s held year-round, but is best in July and August, when farmers bring their cheese by boat and horse to the center of town. You can watch as the cheese is weighed and traded by Edamers in traditional garb.

Although Edam is known today for cheese, it was once an industrious shipyard and port. That’s why, in the 17th century, the town’s specialty became one of the most popular cheeses in the world.

Sailors took wheels of Edam on their voyages — the cheese doesn’t spoil easily and could be traded for spices and other riches of the East.

The ships are long gone; today, Edam’s main trade is tourism. The best thing to do is to just wander its storybook lanes and canals. Consider taking a short walking tour; ask for a free tour booklet available at the tourist-info office on the main square.

While the town itself is the real attraction, I also checked out the Edam Museum — a 400-year-old historical residence that provides a fun peek at what old canal houses once looked like (www.edamsmuseum.nl).

This house is particularly interesting for its floating cellar, designed to accommodate changes in water level without destabilizing the structure.

After a cheesy morning in Edam, I traveled to one of the Netherlands’ most traditional fishing communities: Marken. This time-passed hamlet in a bottle — once virtually abandoned — has been kept alive as a tourist attraction. It’s quiet, perfectly quaint and well-preserved, but not annoyingly crowded.

This island town once had a harbor for whaling and herring fishing, but when the Zuiderzee began to silt up in the late 17th century, it became more and more difficult to eke out a living here.

Centuries later, when the Zuiderzee was diked off, Marken became a virtual ghost town. But in 1957, engineers built a long causeway from the mainland to the island hamlet, which allowed easy access for visitors to marvel at its cuteness.

Walking around Marken, I was impressed with the town’s unique architecture, adapted to survive the challenging local conditions. Because the tides could be so temperamental, houses here tend to cluster on little hills called werven, or are built on pilings to keep them high and dry.

Traditional Marken homes, while dull and black-tarred outside, are painted a cheerful yellow and blue inside.

In the extremely charming neighborhood of Kerkbuurt, I found the modest Marker Museum, which celebrates the 16th-century costumes (still worn for special events) and traditional lifestyles of the people of Marken (www.markermuseum.nl). For sustenance, I nibbled on some kibbeling (local fish and chips) at an idyllic eatery on the harbor. Some visitors take a 40-minute walk out to the town’s lighthouse, picturesquely situated at the far end of the island, at the tip of a sandy spit.

The third town I visited — Volendam — was grotesquely touristic … mix Killarney and Coney Island, then drizzle with herring juice. The town’s promenade is lined with souvenir shops, indoor/outdoor eateries and Dutch cliches.

For a megadose of kitsch, visit the Volendam Museum’s Cigarband House, where a local artist has glued 11 million cigarbands to big boards to create giant images from Dutch windmills to a sour-looking Statue of Liberty.

Amsterdam can be thrilling, but any native will tell you: To really experience everyday life in the Netherlands, get out of town. In postcard-perfect Dutch villages like Edam, you can mellow out like a hunk of aging cheese.

Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email rick@ricksteves.com, or write to him c/o P.O. Box 2009, Edmonds, WA 98020.

© 2012 Rick Steves/Tribune Media Services, Inc.

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Life

David Austin English Roses (Image from Sunnyside Nursery website).
Where greenery thrives: The most delightful nurseries in Snohomish County

Looking to add life to your space? These nurseries have just what you need!

The previous Volvo XC Recharge is now the 2025 Volvo EX40 (Provided by Volvo).
2025 Volvo EX40 is the new XC Recharge

The compact SUV is still electric and still resplendent.

Work And Play With Confidence. Photo Provided by Chevy Newsroom.
2025 Chevy Silverado 1500 Turbo-Diesel Delivers 25 MPG

ZR2 4WD Package Adds Off-Road Weekend Versatility

(Image from pexels.com)
Find your flow: The most inspiring yoga studios in Snohomish County

Looking for a place to stretch, strengthen, and find your zen? Herald readers have you covered.

Relax Mind & Body Massage (Photo provided by Sharon Ingrum)
Unwind, relax, and recharge at these top massage spots

Need a break? Discover where to find the most soothing and rejuvenating massages in Snhomish County

(Image from the website).
Finding comfort and care: Top assisted living communities in Snohomish County

Which assisted living communities offer the best care and quality of life? Let’s find out.

Since 1957, Sherwood Community Services has been a place where people with disabilities have the opportunity to live full, independent lives as part of their community.
The top three local nonprofits making a real impact in our community

Which local organizations are leading the way in impact and service? Let’s find out.

2025 Toyota GR Corolla four-door hatchback sports car (Provided by Toyota).
2025 Toyota GR Corolla available with an automatic transmission

For the first two years, a six-speed manual was its only gearbox.

Whidbey Clay Center instructor Jordan Jones demonstrates shaping a lump of clay into a gumdrop shape and centering the hole during her class at the Whidbey Clay Center in Freeland. Centering the holes is an important first step to turn clumps of mud into art, whether it be a mug, bowl, spoon rest, dragon, wagon or farm animal. (Patricia Guthrie / Special to The Herald)
Whidbey Island clay artists mucking in mud more than ever

Instructor to class: “Clay is very humbling. But you can remake it. It’s just mud. We’re just having fun.”

Photo provided by Mercedes-Benz USA Online Newsroom
2024 Mercedes GLC 43 Offers Luxury, Style And Performance

On- Or Off-Road, This Versatile Coupe Excels

The Port of Everett is hosting Sail-In Cinema again this summer at Boxcar Park. (Port of Everett)
The must-attend events that defined the year in Snohomish County

Which unforgettable experiences brought the community together? Let’s find out.

A person pauses to look at an art piece during the Schack Art Center’s 50th anniversary celebration on Thursday, Oct. 10, 2024 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Immerse yourself in the finest art galleries in Snohomish County

Ready to be inspired? Explore these stunning spaces filled with masterpieces!

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.