EVERETT – Herald reader Paul Giske sent an e-mail saying, “As a person with distinctive tastes in ethnic foods, I highly recommend a visit to Pho On Broadway, located at 1820 Broadway in Everett. The restaurant features Vietnamese cuisine on a shoestring budget. The food is great tasting, quickly prepared and served, and reasonably priced. The spring rolls are fresh, and the wide variety of entrees are sure to please everyone in the crowd.”
When Giske’s e-mail arrived, a friend of mine commented that she needed lessons in pho and asked if she could join me for lunch. I eat pho, a soup that starts with rich beef stock and rice noodles, at least once a month from a stand near my home. I especially enjoy that pho shop’s Friday night special, which is made with multiple types of mushrooms and deep-fried tofu wedges.
Pho on Broadway owner Harry Tran opened his small pho eatery about a year ago, he said, and created the menu. It includes complete entrees ($5.95 to $6.95) and Vietnamese sandwiches plus 19 types of pho ($5.75 to $6.75). He worked in American and Vietnamese restaurants. Then, he returned to his native Vietnam where he learned his family’s recipes and secrets, which he uses daily at Pho on Broadway.
My friend arrived ahead of me and had decided on the charbroiled lemon grass chicken with vegetables and rice ($5.95). I pointed out that she had said she wanted pho lessons and if we were eating at Pho on Broadway, she needed to order pho. She wasn’t to be persuaded. So, I selected the Pho on Broadway Special Pho.
Before my soup arrived and over egg rolls ($3.75), I prepared my friend for the traditional serving of beef pho. There’s extremely hot soup stock with the noodles in the bottom. Some shops serve the beef uncooked on the side along with the bean sprouts, fresh basil, jalapeno pepper slices and lime wedges. The thin slices of beef cook instantly when added to the stock.
Her nose wrinkled but our fresh egg rolls restored her. The egg rolls were stuffed with deliciously seasoned ground pork, cabbage and carrots, and served with the traditional vinegar-based dipping sauce accented with cucumbers. We decided we could eat just those and be happy.
My lunch companion’s entree, which is one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes, was a beautiful serving of chicken pieces with fluffy rice and decorated with a carved carrot and fresh rosemary sprig. The chicken is first marinated in a soy sauce accented with lemon grass then expertly grilled. She enjoyed all of it.
Pho is an interactive dish and you’re expected to customize it. As we ate, I tossed in more bean sprouts and squeezed in more lime juice. Adding fish sauce is mandatory with pho and a bottle sits on each table along with soy and red chili sauce. I commented to my friend that my pho was traditional because it included rare sliced beef and well-done flank, well-cooked Vietnamese-style meatballs plus tripe and tendons, which I held up with my chopsticks for her to see.
Again, her nose wrinkled but this time she also sat back in her chair. Then, I explained where tripe comes from. I thought she was going to declare her pho lesson over and leave.
For those of you who are as squeamish as my friend, Tran recommends the seafood, chicken or mushroom-tofu pho. Or a Vietnamese sandwich. “They’re 10 inches long and crispy,” he said, and the bread makes them distinctive. He especially recommends the chicken sandwich.
My friend and I recommend the lotus tea, which is a house specialty, along with the complimentary cream puffs for dessert.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
E-mail Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.
Pho On Broadway
1820 Broadway, Everett; 425-304-0879
Specialty: Vietnamese
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Saturday
Price range: inexpensive
Liquor: none
Smoking: non-smoking
Reservations: not needed
Disabled accessibility: easy access
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
Pho On Broadway
1820 Broadway, Everett; 425-304-0879
Specialty: Vietnamese
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Saturday
Price range: inexpensive
Liquor: none
Smoking: non-smoking
Reservations: not needed
Disabled accessibility: easy access
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
Talk to us
> Give us your news tips.
> Send us a letter to the editor.
> More Herald contact information.
