TIERRA DEL MAR, Ore. — The bald head and whiskered face popped out of the water about 20 yards from our kayaks, wearing an expression that appeared deeply concerned.
The wide eyes of a harbor seal followed us as we paddled across Sand Lake — an estuary north of Pacific City, Ore. — as though watching a pack of teenagers carrying fireworks into his neighborhood.
“The theory is that harbor seals were once hunted by Native people from kayaks, and they’ve retained the memory that kayaks mean danger,” said Joshua Uithof, a guide for Kayak Tillamook. “They always want to know where you are, but they never get too close.”
The wildlife — including the concerned harbor seals — were just one element of a unique trip that I took in late January.
Sand Lake, one of the most pristine estuaries on the Oregon Coast, doesn’t typically have enough water for much kayaking throughout the summer. But from October to March, the winter tides make it possible to explore a variety of landscapes around the lake and Whalen Island.
Kayak Tillamook offers guided tours when the tides are high enough — generally above 8 feet — for $65 per person.
“During the high tides, the marshlands of Sand Lake get filled in and you can follow channels etched into grass like a maze or labyrinth,” said Marcus Hinz, co-owner of Kayak Tillamook. “The tour around Whalen Island takes you through so many different environments — marshland, sand dunes and very close to the ocean.”
The fact that the kayak tour takes place during winter doesn’t mean you’ll be cold, Hinz said.
“We ask people to wear some non-cotton layers and an outer shell like a rainjacket, with a cap and gloves if you want,” he said. “We include spray skirts. People are usually surprised how warm and dry they stay during the trip.”
The tour begins at the parking area at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island.
I arrived at 9:30 a.m. and met Uithof, who set me up with a 12-foot touring kayak.
The tides were so high on my trip that we took a slightly different route than normal, beginning by exploring the southern end of the estuary.
We paddled below a forest of Sitka spruce where we could see a pair of bald eagles, then headed toward the spit of sand dunes that separate the estuary from the ocean.
The tide was so large during my trip that we were able to surf a few waves coming into the estuary.
The setting was quiet and peaceful on Sand Lake — one of the most intact estuaries left on the coast — but that wasn’t always a given.
Throughout the late 1990s and early 2000s, the southern half of the lake was targeted for development of a destination golf course called Sand Lake Golf Links.
Featuring a clubhouse, 30-room hotel and fine-dining restaurant, a membership at the proposed golf club would have cost $25,000 to $35,000 per year.
The proposal faced significant opposition from community members in Tillamook and Tierra Del Mar, however, and after years of acrimony, the property was sold to the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department in June 2014.
The property will be turned into a new, low-impact park called Sitka Sedge State Natural Area opening in 2017 or ‘18.
After we paddled around the southern half of Sand Lake for a while — and met those concerned-looking harbor seals — we headed to the northern section of the lake near Whalen Island.
Normally, this is the area that would be a marshland maze, but tides were so high that the grassland swayed underwater, and we navigated with ease.
We explored little peninsulas jutting off Whalen Island, paddled near the entrance to the ocean and, after a brief rain shower, were treated to a huge rainbow rising across the sky.
A winter paddling trip on the Oregon Coast might sound outside the box, but if you enjoy exploring new, unique areas by boat, Sand Lake provides a great experience.
Sand Lake Kayak
What: Kayak an ocean estuary north of Pacific City.
When: October to March, at tides above 8 feet but below 10 feet
Why: Explores an interesting variety of oceanside landscape and wildlife
How: The trip begins at Clay Meyers State Natural Area at Whalen Island.
Tour: Take a guided tour with Kayak Tillamook for $65 per person. Call 503- 866-4808 or email Marc(at)kayaktillamook.com.
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