Due to my great-aunt Joey’s fondness for gimlets, I discovered at an early age the delectability of the cocktail onion. I never actually experienced one that had been floating about in a puddle of Tanqueray, or else my zeal for this zesty orb would probably have waned early on.
But Joey always fished a few out from the tall, sleek jar and presented them to us young people on a lovely blue Wedgwood saucer.
I’ve been partial to pickled pearl onions ever since. But only in the past few years did I consider making my own.
First, one must start with a dandy pearl onion. Generally any white bulb onion you encounter that measures no larger than 11/4 inches in diameter is considered a “pearl,” however, I feel that the smaller ones make the best pickling candidates, so I’m always looking for ones in the 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch range.
Some growers swear by specific varieties; ones known to produce a wonderful flavor even in a small package. Such varieties include Snow Baby and Purplette. Northwest growers blend the two concepts: they pick “short day” varieties such as Wonder of Pompeii, Crystal Wax, Eclipse and Barletta, which prefer only eight hours of southern sun, then grow them close together in the “long day’ northern states, at a time when the onions will get 10 to 12 hours of light. This causes them to bulb up before they attain full size.
The following cocktail onion recipe is a very straightforward, and — as long as you start with primo pearls — produces a delightful pickled onion. These are like the ones you always got at your grandmother’s house along with the black olives on Thanksgiving.
COCKTAIL ONIONS
3 pounds of pearl onions (each one measuring no larger than 1 inch, preferably much smaller)
1 cup pickling salt
7 cups distilled vinegar
2 cups water
11/2 tablespoons pickling salt (this is in addition to the 1 cup of salt)
Scald the onions in boiling water about 2 minutes, then quickly dip into cold water; peel the onions. Layer the onions in a large bowl, alternately with the 1 cup of pickling salt. Refrigerate the onions for 24 hours, stirring several times once the juices from the onions begin to form. Note: This step is called “short bringing,” and helps ensure a crisp pickle because it actually draws out moisture from within the vegetable and firms up the flesh in the process.
Drain the onions, then rinse well and drain again. Combine the vinegar, water, and 11/2 tablespoons of salt in a nonaluminum saucepan; simmer 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, wash 3 pint canning jars and 1 half-pint jar. Prepare 2-piece canning lids as manufacturer directs. Pack the onions into the jars, leaving 1/2-inch head space. Pour the hot vinegar solution over the onions to within 1/2- inch of the top, making sure it covers the onions. Wipe each jar rim with a clean, damp cloth. Attach lids.
At this point, onions may be stored in the refrigerator for months and months without suffering in quality.
For long-term storage at room temperature (like in your pantry), process the closed jars in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes. Remove from the water and let cool overnight on the counter. Check the seal to make sure a vacuum formed by pressing down in the center of each lid. It should not bounce back.
Yields about 3 pints.
The traditional pickled onion from the British Isles — the one found on the Ploughman’s lunch plate — use a hearty malt vinegar, which provides a zesty flavor and amber tone. This pickled onion has a bit of zip, plus, it’s on the sweet side. If you want less or no sweetness, it’s perfectly safe to cut back or omit the sugar; some cooks think it provides a balance to the vinegar, however.
LONDON PUB-STYLE PICKLED ONIONS
3 pounds white pickling (pearl) onions (each one measuring no larger than 1-inch, if possible)
1 cup pickling salt
7 cups malt vinegar
2 cups water
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 scant tablespoon pickling salt (this is in addition to the 1 cup of salt)
3 tablespoons mustard seed
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
11/2 teaspoons whole allspice
11/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
3 bay leaves
Scald the onions in boiling water about 2 minutes, then quickly dip into cold water; peel the onions. To make the peeling of the onions easier, trim away the root end with a very sharp knife; peel onions. Layer the onions in a large bowl, alternately with the 1 cup of pickling salt. Refrigerate the onions for 24 hours, stirring several times once the juices from the onions begin to form.
Drain the onions, then rinse well and drain again. Combine the vinegar, water, sugar and salt in a non-aluminum saucepan; simmer 5 minutes.
Wash 3 pint canning jars. Prepare 2-piece canning lids as manufacturer directs. Pack the onions in the jars, leaving 1/2-inch head space. To each jar add 1 tablespoon of mustard seed, 1 teaspoon peppercorns, 1/2 teaspoon allspice, 1/2 teaspoon pepper flakes, and one bay leaf. Pour the hot vinegar liquid over the onions to within 1/2-inch of the top, making sure the vinegar solution covers the onions. Wipe each jar rim with a clean, damp cloth. Attach the two-piece lids.
Onions may be stored in the refrigerator for months and months without suffering in quality.
For long-term storage at room temperature, process the closed jars in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes. Remove from the water and let cool overnight on the counter. Check the seal to make sure a vacuum formed by pressing down in the center of each lid. It should not bounce back.
Makes 3 pints
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.
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