With spring comes a new crop of wild mushrooms in nearby Northwest forests. Besides the prized morels, the hunt will be on for boletus, shaggy mane and puff ball mushrooms, to name a few.
But unless you’re hunting your own fungi, the ones you’ll encounter in specialty food stores are pricey.
On the other hand, since most mushrooms are relatively light for their volume, a little can go a long way. So even the average household budget can accommodate a small indulgence, perhaps a simple saute to crown a platter of creamy pasta or as a flavor boost to a bowl of lightly steamed and buttered asparagus.
Then it’s back to the workhorse of the mushroom world, the more affordable and accessible Agaricus brunnescens.
This common supermarket variety is my ’shroom of choice when I make one of my favorite mushroom-based savories, a finely minced melange of mushrooms, onions and butter created by the great 17th century chef Francois Pierre La Varenne. He called it duxelles and it has become a classic.
I’ve frequently wondered what possessed him to toss a handful of chopped mushrooms into a tea towel, wring them dry, then saute them to a deep, rich, flavorful state with butter, onions and wine.
“Larousse Gastronomique” describes this magical potion as “a mushroom hash.”
The book doesn’t dwell on the chef’s creative motivations. But like I said, it’s official name is duxelles (“duke-sell”), a word that derives from the name of the town of Uxel in France, and that the dish was most likely called this because La Varenne was creating it for his patron, the Marquis d’Uxelles.
At any rate, I don’t have to understand the source of his inspiration to take advantage of his genius.
And so, on a fairly regular basis, I find myself standing over a skillet of sizzling bits of mushroom, breathing in their musty-rich aroma as they’re transported from the state of fresh to divine.
Because mushrooms release their liquids during cooking, I eliminated La Varenne’s towel trick early on in my relationship with this recipe; a few extra minutes over the burner takes care of the accumulated liquid.
In the basic duxelles recipe, the onions and mushrooms are sauteed in butter. The mushrooms release their liquids and the mixture will look like a swamp. Several more minutes over a relatively hot burner produces a dry and thick product.
The recipe needs heat and time to achieve its delicate, caramelized character — so don’t fudge with the process.
I can think of three very good reasons for converting mushrooms into this delightful melange. First, the basic mushroom flavor is enhanced significantly by the addition of onions and butter.
Secondly, the mushroom hash, if you will, is a handy method of applying mushroom flavor to anything from toast points and beef roulades to sauces and stuffings.
Third, by turning mushrooms into duxelles, you will extend their shelf life dramatically, since it’s a concoction that can be refrigerated for about a week or frozen for several months.
Basic duxelles
1/2cup butter
2tablespoons coarsely chopped onion
2shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped
1pound fresh mushrooms
1/2teaspoon salt
1/4teaspoon white pepper
Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat. While the butter is melting, place the onions, shallots and about one third of the mushrooms in the workbowl of a food processor. Finely mince the mixture by using the “pulse” or “on-off” button. Scrape the minced mushrooms into the pot with the melting butter and repeat the mincing process with remaining mushrooms, adding them to the pot when they are minced.
Stir the minced mushrooms with the butter, thoroughly coating them and continue to saute, stirring frequently, until all of the liquid that is released from the mushrooms has evaporated, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Once the mushrooms have darkened slightly, add salt and pepper to taste.
Duxelles will keep refrigerated for slightly over one week, or frozen for three months. Before using, you may want to reheat gently over low heat or in the microwave to soften.
Yields about 21/2 cups.
Note: For a quick and delectable hors d’oeuvre, spoon duxelles into a bowl and surround with melba toast or other fine crackers. It’s wonderful.
Tomato duxelles variation: To the basic recipe, add 2 tablespoons tomato paste and a 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, if necessary, to offset the acid in the tomatoes.
Garlic duxelles variation: Saute about 1 tablespoon of finely chopped garlic along with the onions during the preparation of the basic recipe.
Herbed duxelles: Stir in about 11/2 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh herbs. Basil is a wonderful herb to use, as is fresh dill or savory. However, a combination can also be wonderful, and one of my favorites is a mixture of parsley, thyme and just a tiny pinch of marjoram. The total measurement shouldn’t be over 11/2 tablespoons.
Cream duxelles: Add 1/2 cup heavy cream and 2 tablespoons of creme fraiche (or sour cream) at the very end of the process and cook down slightly to thicken a bit.
Quick chicken saute with duxelles: Place boned and skinned chicken breasts between two sheets of waxed paper or in a plastic bag and gently pound each one at its thickest portion with the flat side of a rolling pin or wooden mallet until it is of relatively even thickness. Lightly season the breasts with salt and pepper, then saute in a small amount of butter or olive oil until beautifully golden on both sides. Before serving, spoon about 2 tablespoons of warm duxelles over each breast. If desired, deglaze the pan with about 1/4 cup of white wine or water, stirring and scraping up all the cooked-on bits of food. Serve with these pan juices and garlic mashed potatoes.
Couscous with duxelles
1cup duxelles (see basic duxelles recipe)
6slices bacon, diced and fried
3cups couscous (see note)
3cups boiling chicken broth
In medium-sized saucepan, reheat duxelles over medium heat to soften. Stir in bacon and couscous and remove from heat. Pour on the boiling chicken broth, stir to coat all of the grains and cover. Let the couscous stand, covered, for 6 minutes. When ready to serve, fluff lightly with fork. It’s a wonderful side dish to poultry, lamb — even meatloaf.
Note: Use the instant variety, which is available in most well-stocked grocery stores.
Makes six servings
Duxelles en croute
4boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
1tablespoon oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1171/4-ounce package of frozen puff pastry
1/2cup cream cheese, softened
1/2cup shredded cheddar cheese
1/2cup duxelles
1egg, lightly beaten
Place the chicken breasts between two sheets of waxed paper or in a plastic bag and gently pound each one at its thickest portion with a rolling pin or wooden mallet until they are of relatively even thickness.
Saute the chicken breasts in oil over medium heat just until the surface is slightly golden, but the meat is still soft and pliable. Salt and pepper to taste; remove from heat and cool slightly.
Meanwhile, gently unroll the two thawed sheets of puff pastry. On floured surface, with lightly floured rolling pin, roll each 9-by- 9-inch sheet to 11-by-11 inches and cut in half to give you 4 individual pastry rectangles, each measuring approximately 11 inches by 51/2 inches.
Combine the cheeses and place one fourth of the mixture in the center of each pastry rectangle. Trim the cooled chicken breasts into 3-inch squares. Place a trimmed breast on top of the cheeses and top with the trimmed scraps of chicken. Spread one fourth of the duxelles over the surface of each chicken. Brush water around the edges of the pastry, then fold up the long edges toward the center, sealing the edges securely, folding once if possible. Roll up the remaining edges to totally enclose the chicken. Arrange the cases seam side down on a baking sheet and brush them with the lightly beaten egg. Bake in 350 degree oven for 40 minutes. Serve hot, with a tossed green salad.
Makes four generous servings.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com, or obtain additional recipes and food tips on her blog at www.janrd.com.
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