Spin open the giant wooden door.
A fireplace, giant Buddha head and gleaming glass wall of wine bottles appears.
China City at Mill Creek Town Center is stunning to behold. Modern decor. Upscale fixtures. Polished wood. Posh.
It’s like you’re stepping into a trendy restaurant in a big city, not a bedroom community.
I was mesmerized by the glass-walled room lined with wine bottles. In the center was an elegant round table that seated 10. We were only a party of three. Bummer.
Also inviting was the expansive bar dining area with long rows of tables and flashy TVs. My husband Max looked longingly in that direction to see what games were on.
Not this time, dear. This place was too pretty to watch TV.
The hostess steered us the other way, past a bright abstract koi fish painting to a raised corner booth by a full body Buddha in the dining room that oozed zen.
Feng shui is everywhere. Even the bathrooms are straight out of a fancy architectural magazine.
As another online reviewer put it, China City has a “slick ambiance that dared you to not be impressed.”
There is also outdoor seating on main street sidewalk.
This is the newest China City, which has two locations on Whidbey Island. I’d been to the Freeland restaurant before the Mill Creek site opened last summer. It was worth the ferry voyage getting over there, and I had Groupon deal to boot.
The Mill Creek menu expands beyond the typical lineup of chop suey, egg foo yung and chow mein.
Unless you get a special combination, though, you have to pay extra for a serving of white rice with entrees. Several Yelp reviewers complained about this. It’s only $1, but I guess it’s a matter of principle. What do you think about rice not being included? Visit www.heraldnet.com/dining to take the poll with this story.
China City has such a wide selection of menu items, it’s hard to choose. My vegetarian daughter Megan also had plenty of choices.
All these options galore … and what did Megan order?
A kale salad.
I almost scolded her for getting a trendy green salad amid such copious cuisine. Good thing I’d held back. I’d have to eat my words.
The kale salad ($9) was amazing. It had crunchy candied nuts and cranberries and a delicious poppy seed dressing. The kale was crisp, cold and cut in easy to eat pieces. I was tempted to order one for myself after I ate half of hers.
I was torn between ordering walnut shrimp ($15.50), which looked scrumptious in pictures, and the house sizzling platter ($14) with prawns, pork, chicken and beef with mixed vegetables.
I went for the sizzle, and got it. The heaping platter arrived straight off the fire, engulfed in a mist of steam. It was packed with flavor. I can see why it is one of their signature dishes.
Max went for the chow mein ($9.50), with gooey bean sprouts and celery on a bed of crunchy noodles reminded him of what he used to eat out of a can as a kid. He meant that in a good way. He gets nostalgic about food at times.
The three of us shared an order of vegetable fried rice ($9), which had a nice consistency, popping with peas and carrots. We also shared an order of assorted vegetables ($9.50) sauteed in white wine sauce and garlic. These were crispy but bordered on bland, despite the seasoning. Didn’t stop Max from scarfing it down.
The presentation was like art. White porcelain plates and bowls with red cloth napkins. Very chic.
The white plates gave the colorful food a clean palette to shine.
The sizzling platter aside, portions were of average size. There was nothing left to take home, but this was mostly due to Max.
My fortune cookie said an idea I had was about to blossom.
Town Center is a fun place to stroll. The open-air market center has about 80 merchants such as stores, boutiques, eateries and services.
Window shop at Pier 1 Imports. Have a seat to people watch in the “Sit” and “Stay” adirondack chairs on the sidewalk in front of Paddywack pet store. Peruse something to read at University Bookstore.
We ended up at Frost Dessert Lounge, which recently opened a store in downtown Everett.
Getting a dozen of their pretty doughnuts to take home sounded like a blossoming good idea to me.
Andrea Brown: 425-339-3443; abrown@heraldnet.com. Twitter: @reporterbrown.
China City
Mill Creek Town Center, 15402 Main St., Building L #101, 425-337-3600; www.chinacityrestaurant.com.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
Alcohol: Full bar
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