The U.S. Department of Commerce reports that Americans are spending more than $150 billion annually to improve their piece of the Great American Dream. Spiffed-up kitchens and baths, extra elbow room with a bump out here or there, and room additions are just a few of the most popular projects.
Of all the motivational factors, appearance tops the list for most consumers. Some of the features and finishes that are in demand include new cabinets that resemble fine furniture, stunning yet easy-to-maintain countertops, plumbing fixtures and fittings in a host of colors and finishes, and state-of-the-art energy-efficient appliances.
One often overlooked finish that can kill any attempt to modernize a home is the dreaded acoustic ceiling affectionately referred to by many as a “popcorn” or “cottage cheese” ceiling. You can install the best, most modern and decorative finishes, but an acoustic ceiling is a dead giveaway that you’re really trying to convert your vintage raised ranch into a sleek model-home-quality abode and failed.
What to do? The answer is simple: deep-six the acoustic and finish the ceiling to match the walls.
Sounds simple. However, depending upon the age, composition and condition of the material, this can be a difficult and expensive undertaking.
The first step in dealing with an acoustic ceiling is to determine if it contains asbestos. Asbestos is a naturally occurring material that was used as a binder in many construction materials before it was outlawed by the EPA in 1978. Thus, if your home was built before 1979 the chances are very good that the acoustic material contains asbestos.
To be safe, have a small sample of the material tested by a forensics laboratory. If the test demonstrates that the material contains asbestos and you wish to have it removed, the work must be performed by a certified asbestos abatement contractor in strict accordance with guidelines developed by the EPA.
Abatement contractors have the skill and equipment to clear the air of microscopic asbestos fibers, which can result in severe health problems many years down the road. An alternative to removal is to cover the material with a fresh layer of quarter-inch or three-eighths inch drywall, which can then be finished to match your walls. Check with an engineer to ensure that your ceiling framing is beefy enough to accommodate the added weight.
If the acoustic is free of asbestos, you have two choices: remove it yourself or hire a professional to remove it for you. In either case it is a messy and laborious task. Also, keep in mind that once the material has been removed, the ceiling will need to be floated with drywall joint compound and textured to match the walls. Unless the space is small and you have experience applying wall texture, you best tool may be your telephone to enlist the services of a pro.
The first step in acoustic removal is to clear the space of all contents: furniture, pictures, etc. Ceiling-hung light fixtures should be removed; wire nuts installed at wires and the power to these fixtures should be turned off at the breaker to avoid electrical shock.
Next is protection. A course of masking paper should be taped to all walls where they meet the ceiling. Then, all walls should be draped with lightweight plastic drop cloths. The pros use a spray adhesive (rather than masking tape) to attach the drop cloths to the masking paper. For high ceilings, more than one course of plastic will be required. Use the spray adhesive to attach one sheet of plastic to another. Next, completely cover the floor with a layer of plastic sheeting. The floor plastic should be cut large enough to go up the walls four to six inches. The wall draping material should overlap the floor protection material.
The next step is to soften the acoustic material with water so that it can be scraped off using a large putty knife. Using a pump garden sprayer, lightly dampen about 25 square feet of the acoustic material with fresh water. Allow the dampened material to sit for about 15 minutes and then scrape the material using a wide blade (8-to-14-inch) taping knife. If the acoustic has been previously painted with a latex paint, more time and more than one application of water may be required.
If the acoustic has been painted with an oil-based paint, you’re in for a real job. Use a wallpaper scoring tool to perforate the paint and allow the water to penetrate the surface. Test a small area to determine how much water to use and how long you should wait before scraping.
Note: Be sure to wear a cap, safety goggles, a fabric-breathing mask and old clothing. Pets, children and anyone not involved should be out of the work area.
Once all of the material has been removed, allow the drywall to dry overnight before proceeding with the refinishing process. During the refinishing process, drywall joint compound is applied to areas damaged during the scraping process and to joints and nail or screw heads that need smoothing out. More than one application of joint compound may be required depending upon the condition of the ceiling.
Once the repairs are complete and the joint compound has dried (typically overnight), it must be sanded using a sanding pole and 100 grit paper. Sanding is the final step before texture can be applied.
The goal with most ceiling refinishing projects is to match the wall texture. Thus, you must first determine the finish technique spray or trowel finish. Some finishes can be applied with a special “texture roller” applied with a paint roller frame. Considering all of the work involved in getting to this point, we suggest that you hire a drywall professional.
The final step is to seal the ceiling with a drywall primer called polyvinyl acetate or PVA for short. This will help the finish coat of paint better adhere to the ceiling and make for a more uniform finish.
For more home improvement tips and information visit James and Morris Carey on the Web, www.onthehouse.com.
Talk to us
> Give us your news tips.
> Send us a letter to the editor.
> More Herald contact information.
