When Jeff Knoch wanted to make better Texas-style barbecue, he traveled to — where else? — Texas.
That was nearly 20 years ago. Today, Knoch’s joint, Jeff’s Texas Style BBQ in Marysville, is recognized for making some of the best barbecue in the Puget Sound region.
Jeff’s pays homage to true Texas-style BBQ, with brisket that is unforgettable and sides that are inventive and delicious.
Knoch has been smoking meats since 1995. Around the turn of the century, he went to Texas to get a better idea of how to make the perfect brisket. What he learned is that barbecuing is less about science and more about experience. He learned what good Texas brisket was supposed to taste like, look like and feel like.
“I came back from Texas, bought a giant smoker and my barbecue got better,” Knoch said. “I learned what the target was and it made a big difference.”
He opened his barbecue joint in Marysville in 2016.
There are four styles of barbecue: Kansas City style, characterized by pork ribs and brisket burnt ends; Carolina style, which is mostly pork and a vinegar or mustard sauce; Southern style, which is defined by its side dishes like baked beans, cornbread, etc; and Texas style, which is simply beef and a rub, or brisket. Simply barbecue.
Knoch uses wood from central Texas to make his authentic barbecue. He doesn’t mop or spritz the meat with sauce. He uses the dry rub, which is generally just salt and pepper, and lets the smoke do the talking.
“Texas style is the most honest style of barbecue,” Knoch said. “You can’t cover anything up. If I don’t do my job, it’s going to be terrible. You have to get the dry rub to marry with the smoke and make it work together.”
The results are transcendent. I took my family of five there on a recent Friday evening and was blown away. Knoch suggests newbies order the brisket little tray with brisket baked beans and a Shiner Bock beer, so that was our first order — except for the Shiner Bock; this Northwest beer snob ordered a Georgetown Lucille IPA.
We also ordered the Friday special, pork belly, smoked turkey (based on Knoch’s suggestion), and sides of brisket chili, mac and cheese and coleslaw. The food was served with slices of white bread, which is the drill with barbecue. We loaded up on pickles, jalapenos and a barbecue sauce that was thinner than most.
First off, and most importantly, the meat is awesome. The brisket is moist, flavorful and smokey. It doesn’t need any sauce, no matter what the kids said.
As Knoch suggested, the smoked turkey is a great alternative to the brisket. It’s a little lighter than the brisket, but equally moist and flavorful.
The pork belly was good, but surprisingly a distant third to the brisket and turkey.
As for the sides, the brisket baked beans was everyone’s favorite. The slight sweetness of the baked beans mixed well with the salt-and-pepper rub of the brisket. I concocted a special side of the brisket chili slathered on a slice of bread, topped with the coleslaw. It was a big hit, especially with the kids.
Along with the pork belly, weekly specials include prime rib (Wednesday) and beef ribs (Saturday and Sunday). They also serve sandwiches, sausage, pulled pork and Kim’s Pecan Pie for dessert.
Lining the walls around the small restaurant are reminders of the food’s roots: maps of Texas, a city sign for Shiner, Texas, population 2,069, and a giant Texas flag, with the lone star waving proudly. The decorations will always be there, but the food isn’t guaranteed to be: when Jeff’s sells out of meat on a given day, it’s gone until tomorrow. My advice? Go for lunch.
If you go
Jeff’s Texas Style BBQ is at 9214 State Ave., Marysville.
Open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
Call 360-386-9489 or go to www.jeffstexasstylebbq.com.
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